Behind the port and the capital's busy centre, Santa Cruz reaches up into the Anaga hills, and a short drive from the docks you're among guachinches. The tradition goes back to the 18th century, and the idea hasn't changed much: island dishes served with local home-made wine.
Our guide picks out the most genuine and welcoming places in the city and its surroundings. Expect conejo en salmorejo, papas arrugadas with mojo picón and simple, rustic rooms.
Choose one from the list below and call ahead to book a table.