Few visitors find their way to El Tanque, a small inland town in the hills of the north-west, above Garachico. Its guachinches cook with fresh local produce, pour their own home-made wine and keep things relaxed and old-fashioned.

Some of the most traditional guachinches on the island are here, with meat, fish and home-made desserts on the menu. The winding drive up is part of the trip, and the food makes it worthwhile.