Up in the hills near Los Rodeos airport, in the north of Tenerife, La Esperanza has a reputation for traditional food. Tourists rarely come in numbers, but locals and travellers in search of real Canarian cooking know it well. Guachinches are packed close together here, family-run places pouring home-made wine and serving home cooking such as carne de fiesta, costillas con papas and plenty of mojo. With forest on every side and a quiet, rural feel, La Esperanza is a fine place to eat Canarian food at its simplest.