Most people know Adeje for the hotels of Costa Adeje, but the municipality climbs a long way inland, past the old town and the mouth of the Barranco del Infierno. Up there you'll find its guachinches, a side of Canarian food culture that has little to do with the seafront.

They sit among vineyards with the sea still in view below, pouring local wine alongside plain, well-made food: papas arrugadas with a bowl of mojo, and meat straight off the grill.

No two feel quite the same, so there's plenty to choose from, and from some of the tables you look out over the hills of the south-west.

If your holiday so far has been hotel buffets, an afternoon up here shows you how Tenerife really eats.