La Laguna's old centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and as a university town it mixes centuries of history with a lively student crowd. Further out, among the fields at the edge of the municipality, are its guachinches: country eateries serving traditional food with wine they make themselves.

Papas arrugadas with mojo picón, pork and rabbit are the staples, and most places charge very little.

Pair a morning in the historic centre with lunch at one of the guachinches in San Cristóbal de La Laguna.